Holiday – Page 9 – Neil Baldwin's blog : Warning contains walking, technology, photography, holidays.

Lindisfarne Holy Island

The plan for Thursday was to visit Lindisfarne and have a look round the Holy Island. I was up earlier than the rest of the house and took the opportunity to take a walk down the coast to Dunstanburgh, to take a couple of panorama sets. The weather was really quite warm, I set out with a T-shirt and fleece on but the fleece had to be removed halfway there.

Whilst down there I looked to see if the end of a lobster trap was still there after we hid it earlier in the week, it was not so I picked up another wreck, of one for H.

We made sandwiches for the day I had Nutella, Helen had Marmite. Then headed up the A1 to Lindisfarne, it made a change to be travelling at the national speed limit. To get to the Holy Island you have to cross a causeway that is covered for about 5 hours on the high tide. We had checked out the tables and were OK till about 16:15. We parked just before the official car park with plenty of others and so avoided the £4 fee.

Looking at the map we decided a loop round the island was the best, option as the weather was probably going to deteriorate later in the day.

There were lots of Northern Marsh Orchids in bloom, and many other flowers to photograph. Highlights included Butterwort and Large Thyme. When we got to the northern end of the island we turned east at the beach and did some rock pooling, was saw the usual molluscs and a few crabs. There was also some interesting geology , with many layers often wavy, some of the layers containing fossils that looked like they were once worms.

We came across and interesting well build hut, it had seats built into the wall round the base, and windows built into the stone, supported by driftwood. Inside there was lots of stuff hanging from the beams built into the roof. Turns out it was a geocache, the most intricate and well built one I have ever seen.

Next we headed south towards the castle and stopped off at the bird hide overlooking the Lough. There were many starlings feeding young on a fence, other birds included Reed Bunting, Wheatear, Pochard, Swans with signets, and a Willow Warbler. We took the opportunity to eat our sandwiches.

Next stop was the Castle, a national trust property so we were able to claw back some of the money spent on National Trust membership. Whilst in the entrance we checked with the staff about the tides, good job too, we needed to be of the causeway by 15:30, or stay till 21:45! That did not leave us much time, we had about an hour to get to the car, Helen then went into route march mode.

It was like the was a mass exodus going as everyone seemed, to be heading back to the car parks, to get off the island. We got back to our car in good time but the tide seemed miles away, perhaps it comes in really quickly over the sands where the causeways is? Anyway we got off the island and across the causeway safely and in good time.

Next we stopped off in Seahouses for some gifts to take back and to stock up on food for dinner. Then it was back to the hut. The weather was just on the turn and a big storm is promised in the south west, and we may see the tail end of it tomorrow. We had had a lucky weather window again, it is a slight shame we miss judged the tides, as we may have timed the trips differently if we had know what the correct tide times were.

Farne islands boat trip part deux

We were up early again in hope of a trip to the Farnes, we had not booked but planned to phone at 08:30 to see what was on. I drove up the road at 08:20 till I got a phone signal and tried phoning. Permanently engaged on both numbers, so I resorted to booking online.

We arrived at Seahorses in good time there was a queue for Billy Shiel’s we queued up I noticed I had a confirmation booking, good news. Once paid up we had a wander and a few pee stops, as we were not sure of the arrangements later.

We headed to the end of the harbour wall to the boat Glad Tidings IV, and got on board, the tide was out so getting on board was a long walk down some steps, then a big step down, onto the vessel.

The boat left the harbour at 10:30 and we headed out to sea, the sun was shining and the sea was pretyy calm. We slowed when there were interesting things to see, both type seals basking on the rocks, guillimots, razorbills, shags, cormorant, and many other sea birds.

After taking a look at the furthest island Longstone, we headed back towards land to land on the Inner Farne. The friendly National Trust volunteers charged us non-members £6.20 landing fee, and told us to keep to the boards walks, and recommended we wear hats, or stand next to a taller person. It soon became clear why, the terns literally nest right next to the board walk, and then aggressively have a go at anyone close by, and had a knack of diving and pecking your head. I am tall and got pecked quite a lot later I noticed blood on my hat where they had draw blood right though the canvas.

We walked round to the light house and had our Heidi pies in the picnic area. After the lovely pies we continued our first circuit of the island. Just past the light house there is a cliff edge where you can get very close to the bird, many of them nesting, you are literally 1m away from Shag nests with young of various ages.

We ran the Arctic Tern gauntlet again as we got towards the National Trust centre, I was pecked a few more times. At the centre there is a church to have a look round, it is pretty basic, but did have a stained glass window. We had managed to while away about and hour and a half, we had 2 and a half hours left for more circuits of the island!

This time round I took the time to try to get some action shots of the Puffins flying in from their hunting forays, out at sea, for sand eels. The puffins were quite good at finding their burrows, and would drop in really close then dash quickly out of sight. If they missed the black headed gulls were hanging around to relieve them of there hard won sand eels.

At about 15:30 we went to join the queue for our 16:00 boat back, the queue was already long, the weather was turning I think everyone had seen enough and wanted to get back to a warm pub with a pint, we did for sure.

All in all we really enjoyed the trip, perhaps would have been better if it had been possible to land on two of the islands as advertised. We were definitely luck with the weather although it turned towards the end of the day, looking at the forecast for the next few days, today was the best.

Walk to the the Ship Inn Newton Pool

We were up as at a reasonable hour, had breakfast whilst watching London get ready in the rain for the Queens jubilee boat parade, the weather in Craster looked good the sun was shining, there were clouds, the weather man said there may be showers.

We headed North up the coast towards the remains of Dunstanburgh Castle which sits very proud on a slight rise about a mile and a bit from Craster. We didn’t bother paying the £4 to have a look round, but walked on past. Just pass the castle we came across a good view of a cliff with nesting sea birds, we spotted Razorbill, Guillimots, and Fulmar. It started to rain so we had to get the wet weather gear out. The rain soon stopped and we walked along a wide open beach towards Low-Newton by the sea where we stopped at the Ship Inn for some lunch. They had a wide selection of real ale, and the food was local, the ploughman’s was excellent. The pub and adjoining properties are owned by the National Trust.

Suitably sustained we headed back via Newton Pool where there is a hide. We spotted what we thought was probably a willow warbler and got great views. Then it was on the Embleton to see if we could pick up some pasta to eat later.

The path to Embleton was quite a challenge, we found the footpath we wanted but it soon disappeared into a field of rape taller than all of us, so we chose to go off piste round the field. At the next junction we were debating whether to run the gauntlet of either the field edge or through the field when a party of about twenty walkers came along, we followed into the field of rape, after a lot a laughing we emerged yellow at the other side of the field.

On the road into Embleton we came a cross a small petrol station and managed to get some pasta and a dozen eggs from the farm yard next door. At the Londis we found H some mint tea. Round the corner we stopped for pint at Grays Inn, and booked up an all day bird watching trip to the Farne islands.

West to East via Scotland

We were up and ready to leave the Lakeland hut at 09:45, so we did. Whilst packing I discovered what the petroleum smell we had been smelling was caused by, the spare oil in the boot pack was slightly leaking, luckily contained within the bag, so I wasted some time wiping down the air pump, triangle and fire extinguisher.

We headed off past Whitehaven, then onto the A7 and through Carlisle, the roads are quite rural long and straight. Eventually we turned off towards Kielder Forest and water, where we though a good lunch stop would be the Osprey Watch point. The road in was pretty empty, but was a good surface a a dream to drive on. The houses were sparse along thje route and you get a real sense of the size of the forest it is massive.

We got to the Osprey watch point (part of a Kielder complex campsite, pub etc) and parked up £1.40 for an hours parking. The osprey watch point was an area round the back of the pub where the local Nature Trust had set up camp with their telescopes, including a quite powerful astronomical one. We had a look you could just about make out the platform, but that was about it, even if the birds were not hunkered down due to freezing weather you could not have seen them. I guess the idea is to catch a view when the fly out hunting for fish over the lake, but it was too cold to be standing around, and we only had an hours parking!

Back on the road we had our packed lunch, and headed into the Northumbria National Park, where the landscape changed from forest to moorland, very open and bleak rolling countryside. The roads were straight only turning when we got to human habitation or followed a valley river. We passed through Otterburn where there once was a battle.

Alnwick was our planned stop to get supplies, and as we drove through looking for Sainsbury’s, I spotted Barbers book shop “one of the largest in England”, and what a lot of books they have. The shop is in the old railway station and it is full of book shelves, most of them open but the rarer books are in cabinets. Helen bout a couple of books while I took some photo’s.

We found Sainsbury’s on the edge of town, and it seemed like everyone from Alnwick was there shopping like the shops were going to be shut for the next month, we checked and they are not closing at all over the Jubilee weekend.

Then it was off to find Craster even after TomTom put us onto the A1 heading south when we needed to go North, but after a U-turn we were back on track and soon in Craster. The cottage was easy to find and had coned off parking directly opposite. The accomodation looked great two bedrooms both en suite, one with a view over the harbour. The lounge was comfortable with plenty of soft furnishings, kitchen well equipped, but no dish washer.

Helen and I settle in to wait for H&N to turn up.

They arrive before 18:00, after a reasonable journey, up the A1. We sat around and caught up, them had some Pizzas that they bought with them before going over the harbour to the Jolly Fisherman.

The beer is good we had Black Sheep Brewery Bitter and Golden Sheep. Tomorrow we have planned a circular walk from the hut.

Pike or not Pike that is the question

Up just before 8 for our last full day in the Lakes, The plan was to drive over to Wasdale Head then take a walk up the Valley and into a very rugged part of the lakes. We will be following what is the easiest (if not the shortest) route up Scafell. Depending on how we feel when we get up there me may have a go at the summit.

We drove over to Wasdale Head which is a little fertile flood plain at the top of Wasdale Valley, there is a patch work of walls with sheep within. There is a car park near the inn, where we parked it is a close as you can get to the end of the valley. We walked through Burnthwaite along a path called Moses Trod, towards Bursting Knott and Toad How hoping to get up as far as Sty Head. The walking started off pretty flat but slowly got steeper as the metres passed, so we had to loose our top layers. Helen is definitely seeing the benefits of going regularly to the gym, I can’t keep up with her on the up hill bits, where I tend to pace myself. The weather was clearing by the minute, there were clouds on the tops of the peaks but there was plenty of blue sky around to let the sun through, the forecast was that the clouds would clear.

As we got higher we started to become a bit more confident and set our sights on Great End it is 900m with a gentle walk in. We came across a couple of friendly students, and I swapped notes on Lumix camera’ s one of them had an LX5 I have an LX3. We shared the path with them for sometime when it got to the point Right for Great End and left for the Scafell’s, we got even more confident and took the left hand route, towards Scafell and the Pike.

Finally we reached Scafell, we looked ahead and could see Scafell Pike in the distance, but between the two a big drop and another big steep climb, which would have been a challenge to descend. We did consider going to the top and down the other side, but we were tired and it was getting way past our agreed turn round time. Further on the way down we had a conversation with a guy going up and apparently the way down over the top and down the other side would have involved scrambling edient, so this vindicated out decision.

The weather became quite warm on the way down, and we were getting low on water! We chose a slightly different route down the valley, in the hope of dropping down quick and getting on to a flatter section, because we were getting tired of walking on the uneven rocky surface. , not sure if in the end it was a better route, Helen found it particularly tough walking down hill over the uneven ground.

Eventually we got down to the flatter part, and ended up back at the car after an hard 8 hours walking, and a total ascent of 800m. We did not hang about as we wanted to make sure we could get a table at the Woolpack Inn Hardknot where Helen was keen to try out the Pizzas which are advertised as being traditional and cooked on a wood fired oven. The menu is quite extensive, and I chose Sea Bass, Monkfish, Mussels in a Tomato Garlic, White wine, Fennel, Sauce with spaghetti, which seems to be quite a long list of ingredients but they all sound good, and lovely it was too, plenty of fish and mussels and the sauce divine. As for beer I tried a half of Pint by Manchester Brewery and a half of Anarchy. The Half of pint was the best one.

So our last day in the lakes, was a good one, and long walk which at the time seemed tough but looking back we both agreed was well worth the effort, followed by some great food. We will sleep well tonight.

Mad dogs, field mice, cuckoos, and Bucks folk go out in the mid days sun.

Up not too early, had breakfast and watched a bit of Sunday morning TV. Helen spotted a field mouse that lives in the stone wall making dashes out to pick leaves, I failed to get a photo.

We took plenty of water when we left the house at 09:45, as it looked like another scorcher, sun block factor 30 was slapped on and Helen even wore a white sun hat. The plan was to walk the tops of the hills over to the sea at Ravenglass then get the train back to the hut.
The path the hut is on leads towards a river but we took a right to take us high over Muncaster Fell with views of both Eskdale and the River Esk valley on the other.

The climb was tough but once up top it was rolling but no shade meant it was quite tough walking. We saw lots of birds, Yellowhammers, Skylarks, and Pipits. We also heard several Cuckoos, then when we stopped for a break at some rare shade we got great views of a close by Cuckoo being harassed (or is that the other way round) by a smaller Lark/Pipit. Eventually thje smaller bird chased the Cuckoo off. Further on we saw another or the same one again in another tree.

We stopped for a break, water and fruits bars, near a cairn over looking the sea view, Sellafield could be seen, as could an Inviting looking lake. Next stop would be the lake then Muncaster Castle for lunch/ice cream. We found the castle entrance, stopped for a comfort break at the car park toilets, and then had ice cream and lemonade, at the World Owl Trust cafe, the girl there also refilled our water containers.

We opted to not pay to see the castle as it was too hot and they wanted £12! We followed the public footpath through the grounds and “accidently” got lost and ended up on a better public footpath that closely follows the river, spotted Treecreeper, Woodpecker, Heron and Merganser.

Another rest for another snack bar and liquids was taken in the last shady spot, at the edge of the woods. Then it was off for the final leg past the lighthouse, Roman bath house and fort before Ravenglass.

We got a bit lost as the footpath was not well sign posted, we were not sure if we had followed the path or not. We had a look round the Roman bath house, there was not much of it left.

We arrived in Ravenglass at about 14:40 just in time to catch the 14:50 train. We had planned to look round the seaside but it was hot and we were tired. The train is quite swift and 20 minutes later we were at Irton Road Station literally 100 yards from the hut.

We had not had any lunch so we had an early tea of my pasta sauce and garlic bread, and settle in for an evening watching telly and an early night. We had a lovely day even though it was hot and hard work.

Going Up North not so grim

Spent most of last night packing, the phrase “Travelling Light” does not apply in this household. Hopefully the Mrs won’t need the thermal layer she packed. Up with the birds (noisy b*ggers) and managed to fit said luggage into the car boot, which must have Tardis like qualities.

Headed off at 8am for the M40. Had an interesting moment on the A41 near Waddesdon when a large deer ran across the road. We’ve started our holiday bird list, so far we have red kite, rook, wood pigeon, blackbird, magpie, buzzard and kestrel. Heading for the M6 toll in the hope that it might be less busy than going through Birmingham. On the M6 toll hardly any other cars what a fab road. Best £4.80 I’ve spent since, well I last spent £4.80 I suppose. Podcast update: out of the 1300 Neil downloaded for the journey we are on no 2, first Andrew Neil now Anthony Horowitz. Blog update: its been a busy month, 599 hits so far, helped by the 60 odd hits via the RSPB retweet of the Minsmere visitor centre pic. Neil also tells me have reached a nice round no of posts since the blog started, 512 (note from driving Ed to non techies, that’s 2 to the power of 9 or in binary 10000).

OK thanks for that Ed, back to my in car ramblings. The bad news folks, is that we have 165 miles to go and this is the in flight entertainment. I’ll try for some motorway pics to liven it up a bit but don’t say I did’nt warn you. Sorry but its either posting here or the lorry alphabet game and I can’t face that just yet. Just be grateful we’re only travelling to the Lakes, if we were on the Dumball you’d have my waffle all the way to Odessa! Good luck to all the Dumballers by the way, great adventure, great cause.

We turned off the M6 at junction 36, and the road just climbed for some time. Soon we passed through Windermere, then stopped for diesel and a pee in Ambleside. Then we turned off the A591 onto the A593 a much smaller and twisted road. We found somewhere to park for some sandwiches and espresso from our trusty flask.Whilst sat under a shady tree we saw a Jay and heard a Cuckoo. Embarrassingly I managed to fall off, over backwards from the rock I was sitting on and landed in a pile a couple of metres down the slope. Only my pride was broken!

Next we had a dilemma either up and over Wrynode and Hard Knot passes or the long way round. Helen was all for the long way round but being the driver was not in the best of negotiating positions. The road is single track with either wall or drop at the side, and to boot it is the steepest road in England. I thought the steepest road was in Devon at Porlock?

The road is interesting and probably not to be tackled in the dark or winter (when access is banned). Helen managed to get some shaky video between “sharp” intakes of breath. At times you could see only as far as the next bend then you got views as it twisted on up/down for a mile or two. At one point we spotted and large bird of prey, probably and Eagle of some sort, it was too wide to be a Buzzard. Without having to stop too many times we were over the passes and down into the valley, Helen could finally take a breath.

The weather was scorching but there was a brisk wind, to take the edge off it. We got a bit lost finding the hut, mainly because we ignored the advice and went over the passes, Helen was having to do the directions backwards whilst reading a map. Tom Tom was also a bit confused as it knew we were near but not on the right road, perhaps it could see a gravel track to get us there? We only lost five minutes and soon found the place, sat in the side of the hill with views up the valley towards Langdale Pokes.

The next door neighbour made us feel welcome and the owners soon turned up to let us in. The hut is well appointed with a big bed, so we should be great for the next week. We unpacked the car and had a sit down, before taking a stroll out to discover Eskdale Green.

We took the cross country route via foot paths, saw Yellowhammer, Swallow, Robin, Sparrow, and Buzzard. We found the well stocked village shop so we won’t go hungry and we now know where the pubs are. I write this from The Bower House Inn beer garden with a pint of Bower House Ale and an IPA. There are a couple of veggie choices on the menu so we should be ok for eating out later in the week. Suitably refreshed we headed back to the hut to eat the homemade curry we had bought with us.

In summary we had a great journey up with no delays, the accomodation is spot on, the local pub serves good beer, and the weather looks fine for at least 3-4 days. Things are looking good.

Day trip to Southend on sea, Essex

We are off to Snape, Suffolk, for the new year with friends, so we thought we would take to opportunity to drop in on an ageing relative in a nursing home near Southend on sea.

We were up and about with plenty of time to spare, so we had a leisurely breakfast then headed off at about 0900 and arrived in good time via the M25. We found the home easy enough as we had taken a peek on Street View the evening before. The home seemed to be well run and the staff were friendly and helpful. P seemed to be happy enough but it took some time before she figured out who we really we’re. We chatted for about an hour and got a few laughs out of her.

We then headed off in the direction of Snape but not before I gave Helen the official guided tour of Southend. She seemed very impressed. The highlights included Shoeburyness beach huts, St Mary’s church and school, and the infamous Priory park in Prittlewell. We tried toi spot the restaurant with the wooden revolving door that P loved so much but it seems to have gone.

We headed out via Rayleigh and stopped at The Barge Inn for some lunch, I had a Adnams Fish burger with chips and Helen had a Goats cheese salad with chips. Both were tasty and good value.

We got stuck in a jam on the A12 which meant we got an unexpected tour of Witham as we tried, in vain, to bypass the queue.

Arrived at Abbey Farm, just outside Snape at about 1620, after some confusion over which building we were in Helen called the owner who sorted us out and gave us the guided tour. Very nice property will serve us well for New Year.

Arlington Court NT

Monday is always the first day of a holiday i.e. the first day you are not at work when you would normally be at work. Today is a trip to a National Trust property called Arlington Court.

After the storm Taffy and I headed up the coast in hope of finding some breaking waves, but although we found some very windy spots we could not find a coast facing the right way with an harbour wall, probably because it would be silly to build a harbour wall exposed to the prevailing weather.

We got back to the hut and soon we were off to the NT property. The owners of the property were collectors of tut, and it is in glass cabinets everywhere. There is a walk round the property that is about 2 miles long.

Hurricane Katia

We woke up at about 08:00 this morning, Taffy had been for a run and was frying his bacon ready for his ritual bacon sarny whilst he watched the rugby, Wales was playing South Africa in their first match of the 2010 Rugby World cup. Unfortunately Wales lost but is was a close match and could have gone either way. Once the ruby was finished we eventually managed to get ou act togther and headed out to Saunton Sands car park (£5) then headed out along the beach for about and hours then headed back for a coffee and cake. The weather was very windy, so much so the sand was being blown along the beach and my glasses slowly gather salt and misted up. On the beach I saw a grounded Shearwater and some Sanderling.

After coffee we headed back the hut after stopping to get some provisions as I was on kitchen duty. Not a very active day but we are on holiday that is what you can do when you are on holiday.